Archive for the ‘Fashion’ Category

The Return of the Roll-Up – or ‘Ankle Cleavage’ for Men

Tuesday, July 20th, 2010

This Creative Director has been doing a great deal of reading lately on sunny beaches and happened to be flipping through a friend’s copy of The Tipping Point: How Little Things Can Make a Big Difference by Malcolm Gladwell, first published by Little Brown in 2000. I am very interested in this concept of how certain trends (or ‘epidemics’ as the author calls them) find their way in our collective conscious.

The science of what makes something popular (or fashionable) in todays über-socially-linked society is as fascinating as it is mind-boggling. Take the unfortunate rise of the skinny jean on men for example. We know that Hedi Slimane in his former role as designer at DIOR Homme had a great deal to do with exposing this rock-inspired look into the mainstream of fashion, but I still cannot believe how acceptable it has become in most large cities to see men in what basically amounts to a pair of tights. I do not condone them on most men – unless you happen to be a rock star yourself (or Hedi Slimane). A word of caution to anyone over 100 lbs: don’t try it. There is something just wrong about men in ‘meggings’.

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A more interesting menswear trend that I unconsciously adopted recently is the Rolled Up Trouser. I am not sure when exactly I decided to start rolling up my jeans this past spring, but I strangely just ‘felt like it’. I had visions of myself in the perfect pair of RRL ‘Ghurka’ coloured chinos, rolled four or five times paired with a smart loafer or even a beach friendly flip-flop and set about perfecting the scene. There is something so relaxed and sporty about this look and as a she designer, I naturally have a great footwear wardrobe to display – but were there outside influences at work here that I am unaware of or have I just been watching too many John Hughes movies lately?

The weather here in London this summer has been downright tropical and the Harrys Design Studio is not air-conditioned (The English cannot seem to justify the expense for a mere two week summer) so a fresh breeze on the old ankles has been nice.

The roll up

The Creative Director in RRL and Harrys 'JAMES' loafer

Cut to the week of Pitti Uomo in Florence, Italy. The greatest menswear brands in Europe were on display and the well dressed crowd of menswear buyers is legendary, but what I began to notice was how many men were rolling. As I became more aware of it – it appeared to have clearly reached epidemic proportions. Suffice to say, it’s a trend. How long it will last is anyone’s guess, but based on the last appearance of The Roll in the 80’s, I would give it about two years in the current juggernaut-state of online fashion. It bodes well for the shoe industry. The exposure is fantastic.

Now…if your considering trying this at home, a few notes of caution:

First: tanned ankles are a must – so that rules out most of the UK straight away. Nobody wants to see a couple of pale, pasty pegs on any man, chic loafer or not. Get some self-tanner or get thee to the beach pronto!

Second: Please avoid the skinny jean. I am seeing a outside movement towards a wider trouser lately on the Truly Fashionable, so Slightly-Older-Big-Guys like myself might want to adopt a more baggy ‘Workwear’ approach and leave the Breakfast Club look to the kids.

Good luck gents and enjoy the breeze.

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Looters in Loafers: Accessorising in Dangerous Times.

Wednesday, April 21st, 2010
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Our Gordon

While scanning the International Herald Tribune today, I noticed an OP-ED piece by famed NY Times journalist Paul Krugman titled ‘Looters in Loafers’ which went something like this:

Looters in Loafers

By PAUL KRUGMAN

Published: April 18, 2010

“Last October, I saw a cartoon by Mike Peters in which a teacher asks a student to create a sentence that uses the verb “sacks,” as in looting and pillaging. The student replies, “Goldman Sachs.”

Sure enough, last week the Securities and Exchange Commission accused the Gucci-loafer guys at Goldman of engaging in what amounts to white-collar looting.”

Now…call me biased, but I had one of those ‘oh-no-he-didn’t’ moments in my head and had to re-read for clarity. Have our banking brothers and sisters become so vilified that we now single them out for ridicule based on their footwear choices? Is a respected NY TImes journalist really acting like a high school Mean Girl or am I missing something here? Is Mr. Krugman trying to insight the public stoning of men in Sloane Square just because of their weakness for pricey footwear trends? Ouch.

What amuses (and disturbs) me even more is that the conspicuous consumption and famously flashy style of the High Flying Investment Banker has now become a mark of shame. The once celebrated and enviable lifestyle of the ‘City Boy’ here in London might have to go underground. No more Gucci Loafer – no more Pinstripe Suit – and please, please, please…stop buying all the nice apartments – it will give you away!

Note the following excerpt from this week’s New York Times about a Chelsea (NYC) flat that was used in the new sequel to WALL STREET. Seems that he insisted his personal effects be hidden even from the film crew for fear of envious retribution:

“The owner, not surprisingly, works in finance. He declined to comment, saying the bank he works for would not allow it; because of populist anger over Wall Street bailouts, financial institutions have been asking their high earners to keep as low a profile as possible. He did not even want to be named.”

The era of Gordon Gheko style is over. The new Era of Discretion is upon us gentlemen…and luckily we are here to help.

Survival tactic number one: New shoes.

I would like to remind those of you still risking your lives on the DLR in Gucci Loafers that there is an alternative.

We at Harrys have been preaching the subtle bliss of non-logo since Day One. Here it’s about quality, fit, comfort and a quiet respectability that will get you noticed more for your sharp tailoring and personal style than for the scarlet G on your foot.

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Shoe of SHAME!

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Harrys Unplugged

Wednesday, March 3rd, 2010

Harrys of London recently hosted a preview night of our Autumn/Winter 2010 collection at our Mayfair flagship store to coincide with London Fashion Week. It was a great evening meeting with new and familiar friends in the fashion and industry press, ‘friends-of Harrys’ and clients – made even merrier by support from our friends at Kirin Ichiban, Crofts Port and Aesop (I often stop by the store on my way home from work for a cold Kirin from our ’special supply’ we keep on-hand for customers).

The highlight of the evening was a special guest performance by a rising UK singer/songwriter Alexander Wolfe, who jumped up on the sofa and serenaded the crowd with his dark, melodic tune and haunting voice. Watch out for this guy – he’s going to be big.

http://www.myspace.com/alexanderwolfe

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Long Live the Classics: Notes from Pitti Uomo

Wednesday, January 20th, 2010
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The cool classic look at Brunello Cucinelli

The Harrys of London team has just returned from the 2010 Pitti Immagine Uomo in Florence, Italy which is traditionally our first show in the fashion calendar as well as the first important menswear show of the new decade. If the higher attendance figures were any indication, there are certainly some ‘green shoots’ starting to pop-up in Retail.

The scene inside the Fortezza da Basso was a lesson in cool sartorial splendor and teaming with the usual parade of the best-dressed men on the planet. We too were suited & booted and certainly eager to show off our beautiful new Autumn/Winter 2010 collection to the industry and hopefully see off some of the gloom that permeated the last two seasons.

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The messages covering the seasonal ‘art’ installation in the courtyard of the central pavilion were asking [in english and Italian] things like ‘WHAT’S FASHION ABOUT?’ or ‘CHANGE YOUR SUIT OR YOUR BODY?’. Not very insightful. But one message that was very clear: Classics Rule.

Apart from our own mantra of reinventing and embracing classic design and proportion in our footwear, it was very apparent that the successful brands in menswear today are also flying a classic flag and the customers are responding in kind. Brands, like Brunello Cucinelli, Corneliani and my personal favourite, Belvest are showing some of the most intriguing, high quality clothes in the industry. No bells and whistles here, just timeless fabrications and flawless tailoring. This is not standard suits and ties, but a renewed exploration of sportswear and outerwear that are the building blocks of wardrobes.

Granted, Pitti is not Milan, so the brands and the crowd are decidedly less ‘fashion’, but as I read the reviews of the Milan shows each day this week, it appears that the big design houses there are also taking a classic or ‘heritage’ approach in these troubled times but often struggle to make it look relevant.

We’ve always been a classic brand, so the Pitti message was like preaching to the choir. We invite you, dear consumer, to do your own research and resist the temptation to contaminate your closet with silly fashion mistakes. Ain’t nothin’ wrong with settling for another nice cashmere v-neck. If your feeling rebellious, go for the lavender.

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What We’re Wearing for New Years Eve: Black Patent

Wednesday, December 30th, 2009
The BENTLEY Desert Boot in Black Crinkle Patent, £295

The BENTLEY Desert Boot in Black Crinkle Patent, £295

5 Reasons Why I Love Black Patent Shoes for New Years:

1. Because it’s the one night of the year when you cannot be too over-dressed, so why not give it all you got?

2. Because they are slick, shiny and never go out of fashion (especially in Milan).

3. Because you can just sponge off the crusted beer and cigarette ash the next morning and they will look brand new again!

4. Because it’s the male equivalent of the ‘Fuck-Me-Pump’.

5. Because you’ll feel like Fred Astaire (after a few bottles of bubbly).

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What We’re Wearing Now (minus the monkeys)

Thursday, November 12th, 2009

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Naturally, there are quite a few guys in the Harry of London office. We like to refer to ourselves as ‘target consumers’. It is also now November in London, which generally means a great deal more rain than usual (naturally). Lately, we have all been extolling the virtues of our classic DOWNING loafer for the wet morning trudge to the office. This shoe represents everything we are as a company: timeless, classic design, the finest quality materials and function, function, function.

Whether you live in London  – or sunny California, you will appreciate the innovation in this cool classic penny loafer. A hand-finished Italian calfskin upper, fully leather lined and featuring our exclusive Technogel footbed. The VIBRAM sole was created for Harrys of London and provides exceptional traction in a variety of environments…(including your office).

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We also like the signature pink colour on the sole that was originally introduced in 2003 and reissued this year by popular demand. We think it builds character and represents a secret act of defiance no matter how traditional your office dress code may be. It’s like my banker friend who specializes in private wealth management for Russian oligarchs at a well know Swiss Bank: he wears a standard banker uniform of dark suit, white shirt and blue tie, but he also secretly sports underwear with little pink monkeys all over them. It’s for his own personal enjoyment.

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Harrys of London for WINTLE

Wednesday, October 28th, 2009

We are delighted to announce our recent collaboration with the highly regarded London menswear designer Jsen Wintle for Spring 2010. These styles have already been seen on the runway here during London Fashion week and presented to buyers and the press in Paris, but I wanted to get into a bit more detail.

Together with Jsen, we have created a set of cool summer brogues to accessorize his new collection. A soft white calfskin version of our COSBY wing-tip was made for the menswear presentation this past June in Paris. It looked amazing with the degrade suiting and the (slightly creepy) masks by Nasir Mazhar.

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We then created a bespoke version to be used on the runway for London Fashion Week in September. Two tones of dusty pink suede were used to create a surprisingly wearable ’spectator’ wing tip (also on the COSBY pattern). They looked great with the soft suiting and  neutral pastels of the collection. These clothes may appear casual, but their quality tells a different story. Jsen is a Savile Row trained tailor and has highly refined sense of cut and construction.

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Both styles are available by special order from our Mayfair flagship store or by contacting sales@harrysoflondon.com.

We are currently working on new styles for the Autumn/Winter 2010 shows in January.

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Why We Love Milan…and other thoughts on The Recession

Wednesday, September 30th, 2009

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On a recent trip to Milan, I had a conversation with a friend who is starting a new product design/concept studio about why that city embraces Design (with a capital D) with such passion. For most casual visitors – and even the seasoned fashionista – Milan is a big, confusing, angry, drab industrial city that is either too hot or cold and damp. The Milanese are famous for not only their chic style but also their chilly indifference to foreigners. But scratch below the surface, beyond the shiny boutiques and posh restaurants, behind the grand imposing doorways and what you’ll see is a culture that heartily embraces new design and an intelligent mix of history and the future. It’s like looking at one of those visual brain teasers that requires you to relax your vision in order to see the embedded image. There is something in the Italian psyche that holds tightly to tradition but also looks forward to creative (and stylish) solutions in everyday life.

I did not feel a recession depression in the spirit there, although my beloved Trattoria Bagutta was noticeably quiet during Monday lunch service. In fact, I thought the city looked fresh and bustling in the September sunshine. I think the European sense of history helps to (mentally) weather cyclical ’storms’ like we are experiencing now as we are reminded everyday of past periods misery and prosperity in our architecture, style references and rich culture.

As for the retail business and our own attitude toward the future: I think traditional Italian (and certainly Savile Row’s) attitudes towards longevity in clothing can teach us a lesson or two about changing consumer attitudes. Anyone familiar with Italy knows that Italians LOVE to window shop and store windows often contain more merchandise than the actual store. Prices are displayed and the merchandising flawless. In store customer service is generally excellent if a bit formal. Many an American tourist has been chastised for rushing into a store and pawing the neatly stacked sweaters like they would at the Gap, much to the screaming horror of the sales staff. Why is this? Because Italian consumers already know what they want when they walk into a shop. They have spent night after night passing by the beautiful shop window on their evening ‘passeggiata’ and have already made a conscious decision to purchase said sweater. They know the price and need only assistance with a size. These are well considered investments – not fast fashion crazes. Men purchase ONE suit per season and build wardrobes of lasting quality, not bins full of Primark. Fiat heir Lapo Elkann famously inherited the suits of his uncle Gianni Agnelli and has had most of the made-to-measure pieces re-cut to fit his frame. Now that’s quality shopping and recession-fabulous all in one.

We are seeing a shift in the luxury consumer towards this kind of considered purchasing that bodes well for brands that value quality and design. This is where the intelligent consumer is heading, like it or not. Fast fashion is here to stay – but I prefer to advocate a longer term approach.

Like the famous poster here in England says: Keep Calm and Carry On

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Who’s Harry?

Friday, September 11th, 2009

You’ll notice there is a new ‘face’ to our seasonal marketing campaign. After some prodding from our amazing New York based photographer Blair Getz Mezibov (http://www.bgmezibov.com/), I decided it was time to use a model in our product photography in order to better illustrate how we see the brand and our ideal ‘Harry’.

Coincidentally…my dear friend PR guru Simon Raynor at Essense suggested a friend-of-a-friend Harry Gilliam (yes…the spawn of director Terry Gilliam) who is represented by Select models here in London. He is tall, dark and handsome – perfect combination of elegance and cool – and just happened to be named Harry. Bingo. I would later contain myself about mentioning the fact that Time Bandits is just about one of my favourite films of all time and concentrate on art directing a great shoot.

The resulting shots are now on the homepage and feature Harry in clothes by English icon Burberry along with cool newcomers William & George and the red hot London menswear designer Jsen Wintle (more about that connection next week). I love the simplicity of the tinted black and white photos which are an homage to an old boss of mine – and I really think Harry embodies the look of the brand.

Blair and I both love these out-takes that were snapped in the down time that day in the studio – especially the dramatic ‘crying’ scene in the tux.

Harry Gilliam was just named one of the new faces to watch by Grazia magazine and we hope to see more of him in our Spring 2010 campaign

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Credits: Cashmere jumper, jacket and cotton shirt by WINTLE (www.wintle-man.com). Navy cotton knit scarf by WINTLE. Tuxedo, made-to-measure by William & George (www.williamandgeorgelondon.co.uk)

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Welcome to the manifesto

Welcome to Harry’s of London Manifesto-log where you’ll find everything you need to know about your shoes and accessories as well as interesting news and events from our travels around the world.